PLMA 2023: Private label cosmetic innovators exhibit functional botanicals and upcycled skin care

Plant-origin and organic sourcing are in focus at the ongoing PLMA 2023 trade show. Live at the event, Allison by Nopa Nordic, Nature & Stratégie, DS Tech and Cosmewax speak with PersonalCareInsights about the role of traditional botanicals and seaweed in modern cosmetics, alongside developments in upcycling, sun care innovation, petroleum alternatives and new processing techniques.

“We work a lot with natural, new ingredients. For example, we have ‘fair for life’ ingredients and we have upcycled ingredients and we actually do nearly all categories in personal care. We work a lot with clean perfumes and natural ingredients and that’s the most important for us,” says Mette Kolling Rothmann, group chief commercial officer at Nopa Nordic Denmark, purveyor of private label Allison.

The company has a new product range focused on refreshing new mothers’ skin after childbirth. 

“Some of the new stuff we’re doing is our ‘Mom and Me’ concept. Before there was a focus on personal care for the baby; now we also include the mother so the mother can take care of her skin, refresh herself and use good creams for stretch marks and so on,” says Kolling Rothmann.  

The range features natural oils such as seed and sunflower oils. The company aims to grow beyond its home markets of Denmark, Sweden and Norway to Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands and other parts of Europe. 

Going back to tradition
In line with green lifestyle demands, cosmetic companies are simplifying ingredient lists and using local, traditional plants and ingredients to formulate the next generation of products. 

“For the R&D experiment, I won’t get into it but the latest we grew was burnet. Burnet is an old plant. We are using it in a formula dedicated to babies.”

Allison also focuses on traditional methods and concepts for cosmetics. “The most traditional for us is very low on perfume, rich in natural ingredients, that’s more the Nordic. Then of course there are a few Nordic seaweed species. That’s very big and we have a range with seaweed,” says Kolling Rothmann.

The company is focusing on its sun care range which it claims is “more natural than you see elsewhere in the market.” “We see sun care is growing. People are much more concerned about their skin and the harm they can get from the sun,” says Kolling Rothmann. 

“In many other countries where there’s a lot of sun they don’t use sun care on a regular basis because they’re not used to it. Sun care will grow but also the need for sun care which is good for your skin.”